PERU

• Intro: The home of the Incas, Machu Picchu and the amazing sacred valley, Peru is the image of South America most people bring to mind and Machu Picchu is somewhere everyone will want to see, but, to coin a phrase, that's just the top of the pyramid - Peru is the Egypt of the Americas.
  
  There certainly is a lot to see, but most ancient sights, if not destroyed/assimilated by the Incas, were finished off by the Spanish. Therefore what's left, outside of Machu Picchu (which the Spanish never found) and Nasca can be a little dull unless you're an archaeologist.

Peru is a huge country, which means two things, the first that distances can get you down especially crossing mountains, but secondly, if you have got time and knowledge of Spanish, there is loads to explore off the beaten track, jungle river trips and great treks.

Time is a precious commodity, Cusco can take a week minimum and will try to keep you there for longer with it's great bars and restaurants. Lima is not overly interesting and the country is generally poor value compared to Bolivia and Asia, and good cheap food, in any variety is hard to get.


Cusco, in-depth history, Inca, Nasca seeing condors, trekking around  Huaraz  and sand boarding in Huacachina Northern Peru and getting off the beaten track.

Rip off culture, in common with the likes of Vietnam, Peruvians in the tourist industry more often than not see dollar signs in tourists and can be a little aggressive. Inca trail and it's raising cost - not taking anything away from the ruins at the end, Puno, distances and generally being overloaded with historical facts and ancient civilizations. The poor man's Galapagos Islands off Pisco are a little of a letdown unless you have never seen a seal or seagull before. Fog covers the whole coast (especially Lima) for several months a year. Crime is on the rise - watch out for your things.

The Inca trail:

The Inca trial to Machu Picchu from near Cusco is something every visitor to Peru will want to do. Regulations have recently changed requiring you to trek with a guide (tour) therefore technically outlawing doing the trek yourself. You will need to take a tour from Cusco ranging from about $480 to $600 (2015 pricing - see right) - and only a guide as prices vary considerably from company to company, you can still find under US$450 tours, but with a train the day after the trek (see below) and a few other elements excluded and possibly second class guides/equipment) - that's about double previous years prices and you could double it still if you think it's a good idea to book with a company outside Peru (it isn't - but needing a permit in advance means many will).

Picking a company is tough as it seems when dealing with the cheapies you will hear just as many bad reports about them as some of the expensive trips - it's a lottery, but standards are on the whole good. Think about the sort of people who will be on the trek with you and what you actually get for your money.

The tour will take you by mini-bus to the km 82 marker where you arrive at about midday, you walk (little interest) to the real start - km 88 - and where the train stops, and then a bit further onto camp for the night. The next day you walk up Dead Woman's Pass, which a lot of people make a fuss about, but if you are acclimatized and reasonably fit is not too bad and porters are available. On the other side of the pass you camp again.

Next day you go over another pass and it is only here the trail gets really interesting. You pass some great ruins and camp again, as far as you can go. That night there is a little party, but you'll be getting up very early the next morning in order to make it to the sun gate for sunrise. This is somewhat of a let-down, since you probably won't make it for actual sunrise. It's a walk in the dark and Machu Picchu is covered in shadow for the first few hours. It's only when the shadow passes and the sun hits it, that it really impresses (this is not the postcard view). Also you'll going to be tired from the early start and late night (noise from previous night's party). Every day you camp about lunch time and the trail is only about 25 km and took me an easy two days. Basically tours are stretched out. Water is always available (take purifying tablets) from streams and a guide is not needed.

After seeing the ruins, the trains (INCA train - expensive, Autovagon or the Turismo Economico (backpacker express) departs Aguas Calientes at 1745 and arrives back in Cusco for 2200ish (the INCA train leaves earlier). If you want to save money, ask the trekking company not to include the return train ticket and spend the night at Aguas Calientes and return on an early morning train departing Aguas Calientes at 0600 to Ollantaytambo and then take a connecting bus service back to Cusco. This ride will cost about ~15USD, but the cheap train can be booked up in July and August. Some of the budget trekking companies include this cheaper ticket as standard in their 4 day package.

Several years back many did the trail without a tour as regulations were not that strict (but have become so). If you want to try (at time of writing you have about a 1% chance of this working1) then here is how. Take the train to km 88 not bus to 82. Make sure you have everything you need (rentable in Cusco) and can prove you are a responsible trekker. If you have any problems, sign up for a cheap tour to use their guide to pass the entry check point, then go solo from there (arrangements can normally be made with low cost companies for just using there tour to get you passed the check point). However these days 'good luck' doing anything unofficial.

Typically permits/places (of which there are only 500 per day available) need to be booked in advance 2-8weeks before. Some tour operators now display permit availability on calendars. May, September and October are considered the off-season. The trail is usually closed once a year for the month of February for maintenance. Depending on the season or time of year, all or some of the following can be indispensable: bug repellent (sand flies can be a real problem), rain gear, thermals.

Whatever way you do it, be warned after 1030 each day huge crowds descend and any effort to get to the site before is well worth it. Alternatively, the area of Chachapoyas and the ruins of Kuelap are now becoming a really great place for mountain trekking and backpacking.

Increasing cost of the Inca Trail:

Due to the rising costs in Cusco for backpackers (the trail is min now in the 480-600US$ range, new regulations have increased standards and conditions for workers, but increased costs. However it's not the tour operators who are making more money - in 2000 the entrance fee was about 17USD now it's pushing 100USD. Additionally the train for your return has increased 1000% over the same period to (cheapest) near 50USD with enforced foreigner pricing; taxes payable have increased by the same amount. Hostels are being pushed by the government to raise prices and meet new building codes: hotel consortiums now own the railroad to Machu Picchu and [some say] are pushing to basically eliminate backpackers from visiting Agues Calientes (town at base of Machu Picchu) unless they want to pay [higher] tourist prices.

Prices are for four days and include entrance fees, tax and return on train. A US$30 discount is offered to students who have valid ISIC cards and to children under 16 years old. What is notable is the increased Inca Trail rates apply to everyone including Peruvians and other Latin Americans and their absence from the Inca Trail and Cusco is obvious compared to previous years.

The big price increases really boil down to tourist pressure on this over-subscribed trail, stricter regulations and better standards. For example, porters are now paid a minimum wage and carry less weight (maximum of 25kg) and groups are limited to max. 16. Tour operators now have to take communal dining tents, kitchen tents and only professionally qualified guides are allowed to lead the groups. The number of trekkers has been limited to about 500 per day (that's 200 tourists and 300 porter/staff allowed) - which means it is worth allowing yourself a few days in Cusco before you want to trek. In the low season you find days when permits are available 3/4 days in advance, but at busy times of year (May to September) - book ahead or do a different trek.

Just visiting Machu Picchu with no Inca Trail: In the big scheme of things, not walking the Inca trail (make another walk in the region for free with same or much better scenery) and saving your money is no major deal. To just visit (without the trial before), you take the train US$100-150 return (about 4 hours there, 5 back), then ~US$40-50 (depending on FX rate at time) park entrance fee (have exact money in USD or sole equ.) and then ~US$15 return for the bus from the station to Machu Picchu (you could walk but it will take about 90mins and is very tough up-hill). Still an expensive day out. Only 2,500 people can enter the site per day. Students get a 50% discount.

For an alternative Inca Trail, the following Inca Rail Trail, has been recommended. From Cusco pick up a minibus to Ollantaytambo (be aware you will be transferred in Urubamba), this costs only a few soles. From there walk a good 35 km to Aguas Calientes along the railway track (remember 35 km is a long way and you need to be fit and even then it's at least 10-12 hours at a reasonably quick pace). However you will see some ruins on the way. You of course need good shoes and snacks/water, but there are shops at the 82 km marker, where the regular Inca trail starts and where is probably a better place to pick this rail trail up. When you arrive in Aguas Calientes (at the base of Machu Picchu), it is recommended that you book a train ticket straight away back to Ollantaytambo, since tickets go fast.

The cost will be something like US$12. Stay the night and have a soak, there are plenty of cheap places to stay. Next day walk up to Machu Picchu for free, (hell of a hill, but only a 4-5km). Or catch the bus for US$4.50 is you feel you have done enough walking. It's going to cost 20US$ to get into Machu Picchu when you get to the top. After head back to Aguas Calientes and have another soak in the hot springs and/or beer. Stay the night and catch the train back early with your prior booked ticket.

[With thanks to Dominic] It is also possible to take a minibus from Cusco to Santa Maria. This journey takes about 4-5 hours and costs US$7. From Santa Maria, catch a shared taxi to Hydro Electrica. This is a one hour drive and costs US$5 per person. You can then walk the 8km to Agua Calientes along the train tracks in about two hours and then hike up the hill to Machu Picchu the next morning. Which is a much cheaper way of reaching Machu Picchu than via a tour.

• Dangers: Some violent crime, be careful at night – don't walk with your pack on after dark or in the early hours of the morning
• Visa strategy: Free on border
• Typical tourist trail: Bolivia - Puno, Cusco, Arequipa, Nasca, Pisco, Lima, Huaraz, Trujiillo - Ecuador.
• Hot/cold, wet and dry: Jungle, coast and highlands all have different best times to go, pretty much a year round scene. Serious coastal fog much of the year. Highland towns like Cusco get cold at night. Peru's peak tourist season is from June to August, which is the dry season in the highlands, and the best time to go for hiking. Many of the major fiestas occur in the wettest months and continue undiminished in spite of heavy rain.
• Money: ATMs; a Visa Plus as well as MasterCard's Cirrus card is useful. Can withdraw dollars in some machines.
• Costs: Not brilliant value for money compared to Bolivia or Ecuador, about $40 per day. Allow $300-$500 to do the Inca trail and similar for an arranged jungle trip. Costs are of course lower than in a developed country, but higher than those in many neighbouring countries. Lima and Cuzco are the most expensive destinations in Peru.
• What to take: You can rent all equipment for the Inca trail in Cusco. Take good walking shoes and a warm fleece, plus if you have on, your International Student card for the Inca trail.
• Getting around: Buses, some roads (Lima to Cusco) a killer, distances just go on and on. The Pan American highway is smooth and flat. Trains are slow, cold and over-priced. Internal flights good value and a necessity to get to many jungle areas.
• Tourist factor: 10/10 in Cusco, outside of 7/10 to 4/10
• Accommodation: Reasonable accommodation, brilliant choice in Cusco.
• Hot water: Some problems
• Average cost: Always less than $10
• Communications: Good internet in major towns
• Health: Altitude and food poisoning
• Media:
• Books: Very limited opportunities to buy
• TV: Hotels with cable have Sony channel and others, with loads of treats. Restaurants and bars in Cusco show movies
• Food: Outside of Cusco, poor and expensive. Eating fixed menus is a way to keep the costs down
• Vegetarians: Can be difficult
• Hassle and annoyance factor: Limited
• Women alone: Normally fine, be careful at night
• People vibe:
• Locals: Not as friendly as other South American nations
• Other travellers: Typical Gringos, packages in Cusco
• Local poisons for the body: Pisco Sours are the drink of choice (see Chile summary) Inca Cola is the soft drink of choice.

Rating: 6.5-7.5/10 (depending on how you experience it and how you deal with/get away from the crowds)