COLOMBIA

• Intro: Colombia has had a terrible reputation and like most of the countries in the Americas is not without danger (at the wrong place, wrong time). Violent crime, and especially bus hold ups were unfortunately common. There are still (as with several South American countries) large sections best avoided and an increasing rate of crime in parts. However, the situation and safety in Colombia has improved dramatically over the last five or so years.
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• In 2016 the government and the FARCs agreed a ceasefire, potentally (the ceasefire failed to pass a national referendum) ending 52 years of hostilities and giving a huge boast to safety and security that was already improving for years. The situation in Colombia today is as stable (sometimes more than) any other in the region and it has become a backpacker favourite and for very good reason.
  
  Colombia ranks as one of the most beautiful countries in the Americas and in parts is fairly free from tourists (compared to Bolivia, Peru, Costa Rica, et al.). The vibe is fun, independent and relaxed. Anyone coming from Peru or Bolivia will find higher standards, fewer (and more interesting) travellers and plenty to see and do making your own path, rather than joining the tourist 'production line' that dominates most of the Andean nations of the Americas.

Cartagena old town and Caribbean coast beaches, San Agustin , Zona Cafetera north of Cali, Sierra Nevada, carnival (forget Rio, head to Barranquilla), the trek to Ciudad Perdida (Lost City) few tourists

Distances and risk of common theft

• Visa strategy: Free upon entry for most nationalities
• Typical tourist trail: None (other than a quick transit taking in Bogotá and Cartagena). Most do stick to, and hang-out on the Caribbean coast
• Getting around: Great bus system and excellent faster 'collectivos' (mini-buses that leave when full). Good value on main routes, more expensive on country routes. If off the beaten track, always know the security situation along the road you are travelling if not a regularly used and well-known intercity route.
  
  As with much of South America distances are long and even with an excellent bus system, if wanting to get around the whole country and do so as safely as possible you should use the excellent cheap internal air network. A good starting point is LAN Colombia (formally) Aires Aero.
• Costs: $40 per day, general costs much higher than in Ecuador, but lower than Brazil
• Money: ATMs commonplace, allowing you to make small withdrawals at a time. You can use a debit/credit card for many purchases with ease.
• What to take: As little as possible (keep your bag with you at all times when on public transport), all insured and nothing you mind losing.
• Guide book: Footprint and new Lonely Planet on the scene. Both with a good level of detail and practical security advice.
• People vibe:
• Locals: Various, however many don't want anything to do with travellers, considering them all North American. Most, however are very affable, friendly and welcoming.
• Other travellers: Various, many Germans, very few North Americans - generally Europeans and Israelis. Some degree of snobbery among the self-styled 'hardcore' backpackers element.
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• Tourist factor: 6/10
• Accommodation: Hostels and bulk standard hotels in cities, accommodation has much more character and is cheaper in rural areas. Try and stay on a coffee farm.
• Average cost: $30 big cities, $10-20 in rural areas
• Communications: Internet can be a little difficult to find outside the big cities, but always available.
• Media:
  • Books: 'A hundred years of solitude' is one of the best books based in Colombia, if not the best ever written. Other Gabriel Garcia Marquez titles are also highly recommended. As is Louis de Bernieres trilogy, the first part (his first book), 'The War of Don Emmanuel's Neither Parts' is the best of the three. Strange title (that has nothing to do with the plot), hugely funny, clearly copied style from Gabriel Garcia Marquez, but as with 'A hundred years of solitude' highly, highly recommended. (It should be noted that Louis de Bernieres trilogy is set in a fictional South American country - that resembles parts of Ecuador, Colombia and Venezuela (Grand Colombia)).
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  • Food: Okay, eating out not overly cheap in cities, many supermarkets mean cooking for yourself in hostels is easy. Water comes in silly little packets and fruit, especially mangos is ubiquitous and cheap.
  • Vegetarians: Fine
  • Hassle and annoyance factor: No real hassle. The most hassle is found in Cartagena.
  
  
  Rating: 7.5/10
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Dangers: This goes for all of South America, but more so for Venezuela and Colombia. Violent crime and petty theft do happen. The biggest threats are after dark street theft. If heading right off the beaten track, ask locals and, if necessary, your embassy. Having your bag stolen and/or being threaten with violence is no joke. Take only what you need. Common sense is the order of the day, such as giving drugs a wide berth and the one solid bit of advice: don't arrive after dark if at all possible, especially in places like Cali (unless being met at the airport) and no matter how far you have to go in urban areas [after dark] even if just a ten minutes' walk, think about taking a taxi. It's not just tourists: Colombians live everyday with these problems.
  
  However, the country has improved its safety issues for tourists dramatically and the FARC are no longer a serious issue with regards to security. 2015 was one of the best years for internal and external tourism. Millions of Colombians travelled all over the country and hundreds of thousands of foreigners visited the country. Most urban areas are considered safe for tourists (Cartagena, Bogotá, Medellin, Cali).
  
  ....Or consider the slogan of the national office of tourism: 'the only risk is wanting to stay!'
  Hot spots - Continued kidnappings make some rural areas unsafe, and travellers are advised to avoid excursions that include Choco, Putumayo, Meta and Caqueta and the rural areas of Antioquia, Cauca, Narino, and Norte de Santander.
  
  
  Comments:                                                                              
  'I'm worry about foreigners being afraid to come to Colombia. There are only some parts you can't go, but most of the tourist sites are safe. In big cities people are nice and security problems are like any other big city in Latin America.
  I have spent most of my life travelling Colombia and I haven't seen a guerrilla yet. In Colombia we have many natural parks not all of them are safe but many are. Don't go to Colombia only for drugs. We on the whole produce, not consume. If people from other countries stop consuming cocaine Colombia wouldn't have drug and guerrilla problems. Don't be afraid of travelling on the main roads, they have military present and are safe'. - Felipe - Bogotá
  'I happened on your very good site by chance, a gift to the world. I've not much to say ..... I have been living in Barranquilla, Colombia for 6 months. If one keeps an eye out for the bad guys, it is all quite manageable security wise. Common sense is the order of the day. Do not go about drunk and do not even THINK of doing drugs here. But if one is stupid enough to try that they need to stay home. Here is one solid bit of advice: Don't arrive after dark. Especially in Cali. This applies to first time travellers, etc. Seasoned vets with folks meeting them at the airport will be OK.' - Ernie Eggler
  Getting to Colombia from Central America
  Since the Pan-American Highway grinds to a halt just past Panama City, there is no road access between North and South America.
  
  A traveller wishing to cross between South and Central America has 3 options: flying, which will cost about $US200-400 (tip if a single is too expensive, try with a dummy return (you don't use) 30 or 60 days later), sailing, or trekking through the Darien Gap. Since the Gap has become increasingly dangerous due to guerrilla activity and smuggling, the Darien option is not for the faint-hearted and very expensive.
  
  Sailing to Panama: Almost all boats (2015) charge ~$US550 and that includes all food on the 4.5-5 day journey. 1.5 day is spent sailing on open sea, at this time you are generally not allowed up on deck during night time because there can be heavy winds and the captain has no way to find you if you go overboard. Then you reach the San Blas islands which are amazing. Your captain can practically choose an island and you have it for yourselves the whole day. The 3 days are usually spent lying on the beach on a tiny island, eating lobster and drinking rum with the Kunas during night.
  Panama-Colombia ferry: There has been a ferry (suitable for taking car/bike on) operating between Colon-Cartagena-Colon ferry, this was suspended in 2015 and never started up again (well at least at time of writing). Keep an eye open. However unless you need to move a car or a bike the sailing option is much better and more fun.