BOLIVIA

  

• Intro: The poorest and debatably the best (from an independent budget traveller's perspective) of South American nations. Bolivia is no secret, it's generally crammed full of backpackers who come for a cheaper stay than elsewhere in the region and the great diversity on offer.
  
  Diversity in - to name only a few examples - historic (Potosi), amazing scenery of a beautiful altiplano plus the world's highest capital city, reasonable trekking opportunities and a hugely accessible (cheapest in South America (not as accessible as in Central America)) jungle. Bolivia is also the most indigenous country on the continent, with more than 50% of the population maintaining traditional values and beliefs. This Tibet of the Americas is as popular as the Asian original.
  
  On the downside it's worth noting that the country's road system is not great, due in part to the topography and in part to lack of maintenance. This can make some longer trips somewhat unpleasant; there is no established budget airline network, so to avoid such journeys and fly, can become quite pricey. Worth a month of your time and a few Spanish lessons, but don't expect to have anywhere to yourself, but the remotest jungle.

Salt flats and altiplano , Inca Trails (there are several), a mountain bike trip down the world's most dangerous road , Potosi and swimming with river dolphins in the Amazon

Lots of tourists and 'tour mentality' - see below -tours, tours, tours. Poverty notable and so are mosquitoes/heat/humidity in jungle areas. The country's road system, cost of internal flights and distances.

• Visa strategy: Free visa on border or at the airport for most nationalities. Other nationalities such as South Africans will have to pay (almost US$50). Regulations seem to change frequently, but our understanding is currently citizens of Japan and most EU countries can stay 90 days without paying for a visa; citizens of Canada, Australia and New Zealand can stay 30 days without paying for a visa. USA citizens now do require a visa, it's a 135 bucks (!), takes 24hours to issue and is valid for 5 years (you can use it up to 3 times per year, 90days max) - Most other nationalities require a visa in advance - usually issued for a 30-day stay.
• People vibe:
• Locals: Very nice and laid back, Spanish easy to understand
• Other travellers: Typical Gringos and lots of them. Predominately young Europeans on long (regional trips), many have high expectations of Bolivia and come to spend large amounts of time. As the cheapest country in the region many just hang-out, taking the odd tour. Also notably many Israelis (often in large groups).
• Tourist factor: 8/10
• Accommodation: Cheap, sometimes basic and cold (spend money on better warmer accommodation if need be)
• Hot water: Can be a problem at budget end.
• Average cost: less than $10-25. Some amazing value places, notably in Sucre.

• Hot/cold, wet and dry: The higher plains of Bolivia get pretty cold at night, but are never as cold as some make it out (since it is not a damp cold), unless in winter (June/July). Visiting jungle areas during or just after the wet season is not pleasant. Lying in the southern hemisphere; winter runs from May to October and summer from November to April. Basically it's generally wet in the summer and dry during the winter.

The tourist season is something like late June to early September, which has a good climate and is Bolivia's major fiesta season. This does however make for a very crowded time with overseas visitors and lots of South Americans travelling.

As mentioned, highlands and the altiplano can become very cold in the winter and wet in the summer. However, the wet summer months (northern hemisphere winter) are not a serious barrier to travel and additionally there is far too much scaremongering regarding the winter's freezing lows.

Yes it can get very cold with the higher points of the altiplano dropping as low as -15C, and in most seasons below zero is not uncommon, but these are nightly temperatures when you will be tucked up in a sleeping bag (rent no problem) with loads of blankets available and not outside in a tent. Remember these high altiplano points are where you transit from Chile to Potosi/Uyuni, not where you travel day-to-day (which are lower areas such as Potosi, Sucre, La Paz or Cochabamba). During the day, it is most likely you will be in a jeep as at such attitude any physical effort is very tiring. It won't be t-shirt weather, but a good fleece (or two) is enough. It's ridiculous to pack arctic clothing for only a few days stay and limited exposure to such a climate. If anything, good thermal underwear is most useful due to it's many applications.

Conversely, on the tropical lowlands, summer is pretty miserable with mud, steamy heat, bugs and relentless downpours, making travel very difficult if you are anywhere off the beaten track.

• Typical tourist trail: Lake Titicaca to La Paz, to the jungle (Rurrenbaque) sometimes via a mountain bike ride to Coroico - back to La Paz - Sucre to Potosi to Uyuni to Chile/La Paz (or reverse if coming from Chile, not Peru/La Paz)
• Dangers: Some violent crime, take care at night and during civil unrest (stay well away from demonstrations) - road blocks and unrest around Easter time common. Watch petty thieves in markets and bus stations. Such thefts normally involve a distraction like something being dropped or spat/sprayed on you. On the whole, these are all minor issues and it is a fairly safe country on regional standards.
• Money: In larger cities plenty of ATMs. For cash, US dollars are of course the foreign currency of choice throughout Bolivia, but currencies of neighbouring countries can be exchanged in border areas. All casas de cambio change cash US dollars and some also change traveller's checks. If you can't find a cambio, try travel agencies, jewellery or appliance stores and pharmacies. Credit cards may be used in larger cities, but not elsewhere - best bet stick to using ATMs in major centres. Some ATMs (La Paz airport) give USD cash.
• Getting around: Most roads okay with frequent buses, some roads (especially lowland roads in wet season) are awful. Trains get very cold at night and are considered worse than buses - certainly slower. Worth flying to jungle areas and if feeling a little travel worn. As mentioned in the lowlights, making long trips can be somewhat unpleasant, roads in the cities are alright, and the stretch just south of La Paz is OK, but most other rural roads are terrible.
  
  There is no established budget airline network, so to avoid such journeys and fly, can become quite pricey. Domestic carriers- are expensive compared to buses, but not as expensive as this seems to imply.
• Costs: Cheapest nation within South America, US$20-30 or even less a day. Excellent value if you are prepared to live, eat and travel as locals do. However, if you want to do a jungle trip, mountain climb/bike, trip across the altiplano or other such activities you will spend more (although tours are great value). There are also plenty of other temptations (give often party vibe) which will increase costs for some.

Tours, Tours, Tours: Bolivia is indisputably 'backpacker central' and an industry has sprung up to provide easy, cheap and comfortable tours tailored to young travellers. So much so that you could easily explore the jungle, silver miners, salt flats, 'death' road, etc., without ever having to take local transportation or interact with locals (apart from guides) all to a soundtrack of contemporary dance music.

These tours make seeing Bolivia easy, cheap and fun (if you get lucky with others in your group). However, after a while you might wonder if you really saw Bolivia at all.

• Health: Be aware of food poisoning. Take it very easy and be careful at high altitudes - it is common for a traveller to hit 5000 meters. Anyone arriving from sea level will have a screaming headache for a day or two, and a few become very sick indeed.
• What to take: Some warm clothes and a hat, cool covering clothes and insect repellent for jungle. Some periods of the year can be quite wet and a waterproof jacket can be useful during these times. Note that La Paz is full of shops selling not only locally produced Llama and Alpaca wool jumpers/gloves/scarfs, but also outdoor equipment such as fleeces, down jackets, hiking shoes, rain jackets and anything you would need if you don't bring from home, so no need to panic - you won't freeze.
• Communications: Internet no problem, plenty of fast Wi-Fi,
• Food: Some good, cheap food
• Vegetarians: Not really a problem
• Hassle and annoyance factor: Limited
• Women alone: Be careful at night, not really a problem. Taking jungle tours alone, especially if female, is not advised.
• Local poisons for the body: Mate de Coca, a tea made from coca leaves (as in the raw material for cocaine production) is widely available, drunk and cherished throughout the country. Equally, the leaves are chewed (and have been for centuries) by locals. Both are known to be helpful for altitude sickness. Despite the content, you would need to be a fairly professional chewer (the locals build up large lumps of chewed leaves in their cheeks, hamster style) or drink one hell of a lot of tea to have any real effect beyond that of strong coffee.
  
  

Rating: 8/10